The autumn colours of Lessinia and Verona are dominated by ammonite red

What a magnificent display of colour and vitality the trees of Lessinia offer right now, as November has only just begun. This hand-shaped plateau, a treasure trove of ammonite red – the stone with which the Romans also built the Verona Arena – and, even earlier, of flint that set off from here in prehistoric times to reach as far as the Baltic States, is an absolute must-visit destination on a road trip starting right from the city of the Scaligeri. And especially for those who love walking in the woods. In the latter case, the most adventurous route can begin at the Geopalaeontological Museum in Camposilvano. Both to admire its incredibly rich collection of ammonites, cave bear bones and hyena jawbones – which Attilio Benetti, a farmer and mountain miner, first collected in his home barn before they were brought together in the educational space adjacent to it. Or because from there a network of exciting trails unfolds, offering views of the Berici Mountains, the Euganean Hills, Lake Garda and even the Apennines, which, winding through pastures and beech woods, lead to places of great natural beauty. Starting with that cavernous grotto, the Covolo di Camposilvano, dominated by a centuries-old beech tree said to have inspired Dante – himself a tireless wanderer – in imagining the architecture of his ‘Inferno’. Then, from Contrada Cuniche – which boasts Cimbrian origins and lies at an altitude of 1,188 metres – you find yourself immersed amongst cherry trees, ash trees, spruce, manna ash, rowans, which paint the horizon of the Carega dolomite range in shades of red, golden yellow and brown. Shortly afterwards, you pass through the beech forest of the sphinxes – rock formations, remnants of the erosion of a single, vast block of red ammonite, carpeted in moss and with bizarre shapes, scattered by the hundreds. The final stop is the Camposilvano Agriturismo, where the Gaspari family prepare sublime Lessinia gnocchi (the ingredients are flour, water, butter and cheese). These and other itineraries and experiences can also be enjoyed by following the recommendations of Destination Verona & Garda, the foundation established by the Chamber of Commerce to promote these areas.