Ban Jelačić Square and Dolac: the heart of everyday life

A tour of Zagreb, which was historically spread across two hills – Grič and Kaptol – can begin at Ban Jelačić Square, the symbolic centre and hub of daily life. The title of ‘ban’ was held by Croatian governors: Josip Jelačić is one of the best-known figures in national history, and the square is named after him; before taking its current name, it was called Harmica, in reference to the tariffs paid in medieval times to sell one’s goods. A short walk uphill takes you to Dolac, the central market and the city’s most famous, which opened in 1930 on the site of the old town centre. The morning is the best time to visit, when the stalls selling fruit, vegetables, cheese and flowers come alive with voices, scents and colours. The open-air stalls provide a backdrop to the characteristic red umbrellas of Šestine, which draw on elements of traditional folk costume and have now become one of the capital’s most recognisable sights. Dolac is also a place that commemorates labour, as symbolised by the statue of Kumica, the peasant woman with a basket, which pays tribute to the