Tkalčićeva, the vanished stream and the Grič Tunnel

From Gornji Grad, you can walk back down towards Tkalčićeva, one of the liveliest streets in the city centre, lined with cafés, restaurants and outdoor seating areas that invite you to take a break from the cool late-afternoon air. Its layout follows the course of a stream (the water was diverted in the early 20th century) that once separated Gradec from Kaptol; taking a side street leads to the ‘Blood Bridge’, a name derived from the (legendary and undocumented) image of a stream running red with blood at the height of the clashes between the two rival cities. At the foot of the hill lies the Grič Tunnel, also dating from the Middle Ages and expanded during the Second World War to serve as an air-raid shelter: over 300 metres long, it is now used as a pedestrian passage (access is, however, subject to specific opening hours, which can be found on the official Infozagreb website) and as a venue for events and installations. Nearby is also the Museum of Broken Relationships, which offers another unusual experience to enjoy in the city thanks to a travelling exhibition of everyday objects donated by people from all over the world, each accompanied by the story of a relationship that has since ended.