The Upper Town, amidst coats of arms and bells

From Dolac, the route continues uphill towards the higher ground where Gornji Grad is situated – the medieval heart of the old royal city of Gradec, distinct from Kaptol, the seat of the clergy and the bishop. A must-see stop on the itinerary is St Mark’s Square, dominated by the church of the same name, whose origins date back to the 13th century (the building has undergone several alterations over time) and whose silhouette is recognisable by its roof of coloured tiles, featuring the coats of arms of Zagreb and the Kingdom of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia (at the centre of this coat of arms you can make out the kuna, an animal similar to a marten which gave its name to the Croatian currency). Not far away is the Stone Gate, an ancient passageway and a place of contemplation for the many worshippers who stop here to pray amidst candles and votive plaques: inside, there is an image of the Virgin Mary which, according to tradition, remained unscathed during the devastating fire in the 18th century that destroyed the entire city. Continuing along the route, you reach the 13th-century Lotrščak Tower, part of the Gradec fortifications. Its name derives from ‘campana latrunculorum’, the bell of thieves and witches which announced the night-time closing of the city gates; its modern fame, however, is associated with the cannon shot fired at midday, a tradition in vogue since the early 19th century. Finally, don’t miss a stop on the panoramic walkway to take in a 180-degree view of the Lower Town.