Altamura: from medieval festivals to the art of urban planning

Matera is only about 20 km away by car, and the border with Basilicata is even closer, but Altamura has its own distinct identity, which is particularly reflected in its culinary traditions. ‘Pecr alla rzzaul’ (pecora alla rizzola), for example, is a typical, ancient stew made from Altamura-bred sheep, cooked for a long time with vegetables and wild herbs from the Murgia. Altamura’s other culinary pride and joy is its bread, an indispensable staple in traditional Alta Murgia cuisine and now also a tourist attraction. A guided tour of the historic Panificio DiGesù bakery, in operation since 1842, offers the chance to witness and savour the culture of ‘making’ bread, scrupulously following the criteria of the PDO regulations, starting with the sourdough starter, which is constantly refreshed, right through to the oak wood burnt in the oven – the largest in the city (with a diameter of 6 metres). Passing through Porta Bari, you walk along Corso Federico II (where ‘Federicus’, the medieval festival in his honour, takes place from 2 to 4 October), arriving at the cathedral. Commissioned by the Swabian ruler around 1230, partially destroyed by an earthquake and rebuilt during the Angevin period between the 14th and 15th centuries, it is famous above all for its richly decorated entrance portal and its ‘Matronei’, spaces once used as places of worship for women. The other unmissable stop in the historic centre brings us back to bread: the ancient Forno di Santa Caterina, which dates back to 1306, you can sit at a table with Graziella and Teresa, both in their nineties, to learn the art of kneading dough, or take a seat in the small outdoor courtyard to sample the bakery’s specialities, including, of course, Apulian focaccia.