Federician Apulia: a blend of history and tradition, nature and good food

3/8Travel Diary

The cathedral, the crypt of St Nicholas and the Monastery of Colonna

From the ancient Porta Vassalla, one can enjoy a picturesque view of the bell tower of the Romanesque Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, which reveals itself in all its monumental splendour (four religious buildings within a single complex, as well as two early Christian hypogea) – whether from the square in front of the main entrance or from the seafront promenade that winds around the basilica. Saint Nicholas the Pilgrim, patron saint of Trani (solemnly celebrated between late July and early August), was welcomed here in the year 1094 and died here, effectively marking the start (in the year 1099) of the construction work on the crypt – characterised by 28 columns, each with a different capital, which houses his relics – and on the upper level of the cathedral. Particular attention should be paid to the floor frescoes at the altar and the symbolism featuring biblical scenes on the ancient bronze portal created by Barisano da Trani in 1105. Finally, the climb (for a fee) up the 60-metre-high bell tower is well worth the effort of ascending 260 steps to enjoy the spectacular 360-degree view of the sea, the city and the hinterland, whilst a stroll to the lighthouse at the end of the pier or to the seaside park behind the Villa Comunale offers a view of the cathedral’s rear and allows you to appreciate its full grandeur. Just a short walk from the cathedral, the Diocesan Typewriter Museum is well worth a visit, whilst on the southern outskirts of the city, on a small peninsula also accessible via the cycle path that starts at the harbour and continues along the Sentiero Le Matinelle towards Bisceglie, you’ll find the Monastery of Colonna (the site of the miracle of the ‘Cross of Colonna’) and the adjacent little church of Romanesque origin. An ancient Benedictine complex dating back to the 11th century and later home to Franciscan monks in medieval times, it has endured long periods of neglect and has only recently (since 2023) been restored as an exhibition space for temporary exhibitions and cultural events.

https://viaggiareinpuglia.it/it/area/puglia-imperiale

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