The pleasures of the table: Apulia’s food and drink

For those with a ‘strong’ appetite, the journey of discovery through the region’s flavours can begin as early as breakfast, with a taste of ‘u’ calzone’ – a traditional rustic pastry filled with onion, olives and tuna, baked in ancient ovens. Come evening, however, the atmosphere created by the lights along the ramparts becomes a culinary delight as you sit at the tables of restaurants overlooking the harbour or in the courtyard gardens lining the cobbled streets of the Jewish quarter. The La Banchina tavern, which also features a terrace with a suite, is a must-visit for its fresh catch and seafood-based pasta dishes; the Corteinfiore restaurant, in the ‘pittaglio’ (neighbourhood) of San Marco, is an elegant establishment serving gourmet dishes, housed in a 16th-century palace (the building incorporates part of the ancient walls and is also a charming residence). At the Manima restaurant, tables are set just a stone’s throw from the sea in Piazza Quercia (where the ‘Dialoghi’ stage is set up) and the à la carte menu reflects a careful selection of ingredients. For those seeking a more traditional, meat-based experience, however, the place to go is Masseria Barbera, set in the olive-dotted countryside of Minervino Murge. The property, dating back to the 18th century and owned since 1862 by the family of one of Garibaldi’s ‘Thousand’, operates as an agriturismo (it will soon also offer guest accommodation and has been part of the Osterie d’Italia network for over 20 years, serving excellent (and very generous) cuisine made with local produce, alongside homemade bread and pastries).